Hillmer's Essentials of Fine Leather

	What Is Leather? Leather is the hide (skin) of an animal which has been tanned, finished, and processed for use as a material to create fashion apparel, footwear, accessories, and other consumer products.
	How Many Different Kinds Of Leather Are There? There are as many different kinds of leather as there are animals whose hides and skins are suitable for such tanning, finishing, and processing. The most commonly used leather today is cowhide. Other popular leathers include lamb, pig, goat (kidskin and cabretta), sheep (shearling) and exotic leathers such as ostrich, lizard, eel, etc.
	Why Is Leather So Popular? Of all natural materials used by mankind, there is no other material which is as sensuous to touch, beautiful to behold, durable to wear, and as rich to smell as that of leather which is correctly tanned, finished, and processed.
	What Determines The Quality And Value Of Leather? There are different factors which determine the quality and value of leather. One of the most important factors is the layer of the animal hide from which the leather is cut. For example, most cowhides are so thick they can be cut into three or more different layers. The strongest layer is the top part of the hide on which the hair grows and which endures the natural elements of rain, snow, wind, etc. This is the the top-grain. The second layer is called the split. It may be tanned and finished to look much like a top-grain leather, but it will lack the strength and durability. The third layer is called the buff and is never satisfactory for use in a quality product. Ironically, many products marked "Genuine Leather" are actually the split leather. Although top-grain leathers also may be marked "Genuine Leather", there is a big difference between the normal wear of a top-grain leather product and that of a split leather product. It is important to find out from which of the two layers a product is made. A second important factor is to know the part of an animal hide from which the leather is processed. The part of a hide around the belly or the leg of an animal is always thinner than the rest of the hide. This weaker part is called flank. It is important to feel a leather garment or product to be sure pieces of flank leather have not been used at any stress point or near a seam. A third factor is the quality of the processes used to tan, dye, and finish a hide. Each of HILLMER'S leather coats and jackets is top-grain and correctly processed so it will not water spot easily when you wear it in rain or snow. Many leather garments, however, are not processed accordingly and should not be worn in rain or snow. (No leather is water-proof and, hence, should not be saturated with water for a length of time. However, a correctly tanned and finished leather product periodically may be used or worn in and out of the elements without water-spotting easily.) Each of HILLMER'S leather jackets and products is processed so it will never have an offensive odor when it becomes damp or wet. Each of HILLMER'S smooth leather coats and jackets is processed so its colors will not run or fade when it is professionally leather cleaned.
	What Is Suede? The reverse side of the top-grain part of a hide has a nap which, when tanned and finished, becomes suede. (When you look at the reverse side of a true suede you will notice that it is actually smooth.) A split leather may be tanned and finished to produce a nappy "suede" texture, but it is never as soft or supple as that of a true top-grain suede. (If leather appears to be suede on both sides, then it has been processed from the split layer of the hide.)
	How Do I Take Care Of Leather? The secret of keeping leather soft and supple (providing it has been correctly tanned, finished, and processed) is to retain the oils in the fibers of the leather. Over a period of time oils will gradually dry out, causing the leather to lose its suppleness and, in turn, harden and become brittle. A leather coat or jacket should be treated at least once (preferably twice) a year by applying a quality leather cleaner to dissolve and remove the old oils; then by applying a quality leather conditioner to put fresh oils back into the fibers of the leather. HILLMER'S Service Center uses, recommends and offers for sale quality leather cleaners and conditioners. These also may be used to clean and condition most leather car seats, furniture, business cases, and luggage. More information about cleaning and conditioning leather is available from our Service Associates. Interestingly enough, most smaller leather items (handbags, wallets, etc.) are conditioned by your own natural body oils as you touch, rub, and come in contact with them on a regular basis. When a leather garment or other product becomes wet, it should never be placed in front of a heater or vent to force it dry. Doing so will quickly dry out the oils and damage the leather. Always dry a leather product naturally at room temperature. Avoid storing leather garments in highly humid areas or in plastic over long periods of time. Put them in a cloth garment bag or hang them without any cover in order to allow them to "breathe". When there may be a question about the suitability of cleaning or conditioning a leather product, you are welcome to bring the product in to HILLMER'S Service Center for a complimentary inspection (Mon - Fri 9am - 6pm CST). HILLMER'S also offers our area's most comprehensive leather coat/jacket cleaning and repair service, as well as repair of most types of luggage, business cases, and other bags.